SOP-020: Fabric Cutting Standards & Procedures

Document Control

Field	Value
SOP ID	SOP-020
Version	1.0
Effective Date	2026-02-02
Owner Position	Production Manager
Review Date	2027-02-02
Status	Active
Supersedes	None

Purpose

This SOP establishes standardized procedures for cutting fabric to ensure:

• Accurate pattern placement and grain alignment
• Minimal fabric waste and optimal material usage
• Consistent quality across all garment pieces
• Safe operation of cutting equipment
• Prevention of costly cutting errors that cannot be reversed

Cutting is the most critical and irreversible step in garment production. Errors at this stage result in wasted materials (averaging $50-$500 per error), production delays, and potential project cancellation. This SOP ensures cutters work systematically with quality checks at each stage.

Scope

In Scope:

• All fabric cutting for custom costume and garment production
• Cutting of main fabrics, linings, interlinings, and interfacings
• Both manual cutting (scissors, rotary cutters) and machine cutting (straight knife, round knife)
• Cutting for single garments and small production runs (\<50 pieces)
• Specialty fabrics requiring directional cutting (napped fabrics, prints, plaids, stripes)

Out of Scope:

• Leather and synthetic leather cutting (requires specialized SOP)
• Large production runs (>50 pieces) using automated cutting systems
• Sample cutting for draping or mockups (less stringent requirements)
• Trim, ribbon, and notion cutting (covered in finishing procedures)

RABSIC Responsibility Matrix

Role	Position/Department	Responsibility Description
R (Responsible)	Cutter	Executes all cutting procedures, validates pattern layout, performs quality checks
A (Accountable)	Production Manager	Final authority on cutting decisions, approves non-standard layouts, owns fabric waste metrics
B (Backup)	Senior Cutter	Covers cutting when primary Cutter unavailable, handles complex specialty fabrics
S (Support)	Pattern Maker	Provides pattern clarifications, grain line guidance, notch placement corrections
I (Informed)	Sewing Team Lead, Designer	Notified when cutting complete and ready for sewing; informed of fabric variances
C (Consulted)	Designer (for specialty fabrics)	Consulted on directional cutting decisions, print matching, color placement for unique materials

Prerequisites

Required Tools/Systems:

• Cutting table (minimum 6ft x 3ft, clean, level surface)
• Pattern weights (minimum 8 per layout)
• Fabric shears (sharp, dedicated fabric-only)
• Rotary cutter with safety guard and cutting mat
• Straight pins (fine dressmaker pins)
• Tailor's chalk or fabric marking pencils (water-soluble)
• Measuring tape (60-inch)
• Ruler or L-square (24-inch minimum)
• Steam iron and pressing surface (for pre-cutting fabric prep)

Required Training:

• Fabric Grain Identification Workshop (2 hours)
• Pattern Layout Optimization Training (3 hours)
• Cutting Equipment Safety Certification (1 hour)
• Specialty Fabric Handling Course (2 hours)

Required Documents/Data:

• Approved pattern pieces with grainline markings
• Cutting layout diagram (if provided by Pattern Maker)
• Fabric requirements sheet from design brief
• Material inspection report (fabric flaws marked)

Access/Permissions:

• Cutting room access authorization
• Fabric storage room access
• Pattern library access

Step-by-Step Procedure

Step 1: Pre-Cutting Preparation & Fabric Inspection

Objective: Ensure fabric and workspace are ready for accurate cutting.

Actions:

1. Retrieve fabric from storage:

   • Verify fabric against design brief: fiber content, color, weight
   • Check fabric bolt label for dye lot number
   • Document dye lot in production record (critical for future matching)

2. Unroll fabric and inspect full yardage on cutting table:

   • Visual inspection: Look for flaws (holes, stains, weave irregularities, color variations)
   • Mark any flaws with tailor's chalk on fabric edge (not on usable area)
   • Measure actual width at 3 points (beginning, middle, end) - fabric width can vary
   • Measure actual yardage received vs. ordered

3. Identify fabric characteristics:

   • Grain direction: Pull a single weft thread across width to confirm straight grain
   • Nap direction: Brush hand over surface - smooth = with nap, rough = against nap
   • Right vs. wrong side: Check for sheen, print clarity, texture differences
   • Selvage location: Identify and note condition (tight selvages may require trimming)

4. Relax fabric (CRITICAL for accuracy):

   • Allow fabric to rest flat on table for minimum 1 hour (24 hours ideal for knits)
   • For wrinkled fabrics: Press with steam iron on appropriate temperature
   • For rolled fabrics with creases: Light pressing may be needed
   • NEVER cut fabric immediately after unrolling - dimensional changes occur during relaxation

5. Prepare cutting table:

   • Clear table of all debris, pins, thread
   • Check table surface for snags or rough spots
   • Ensure adequate lighting (minimum 500 lux, no shadows)
   • Set up pattern weights, chalk, scissors within easy reach

Quality Checkpoint:

• Fabric matches design brief specifications
• Dye lot documented in production record
• All flaws identified and marked
• Actual width and yardage measured and documented
• Grain direction confirmed
• Fabric relaxed (minimum 1 hour)
• Cutting table clean and properly lit

Estimated Time: 30-45 minutes (plus relaxation time)

Responsible Role: Cutter

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Step 2: Pattern Layout Planning

Objective: Determine optimal pattern placement to minimize waste while respecting grain requirements.

Actions:

1. Gather all pattern pieces for the garment:

   • Lay out all pieces on a separate table
   • Count pieces against pattern inventory list
   • Identify any missing pieces (notify Pattern Maker immediately if incomplete)

2. Review grainline requirements:

   • Straight grain: Arrow on pattern runs parallel to selvage
   • Cross grain: Arrow runs perpendicular to selvage (rare, typically for bias bindings)
   • Bias: Arrow runs at 45-degree angle to selvage
   • Nap layout: All pieces must be oriented in same direction (one-way layout)

3. Calculate fabric requirements:

   • Measure longest pattern piece
   • Measure widest pattern piece
   • Add 2-inch margin on all sides for safety
   • Check calculated requirement against fabric yardage available

4. Create layout strategy:

   • IF cutting layout diagram provided → Follow diagram exactly (proceed to Step 3)
   • IF no diagram provided → Create optimal layout (see Layout Guidelines below)

   Layout Guidelines (when creating own layout):

   • Start with largest pieces first
   • Place pieces "head to head, toe to toe" to minimize waste
   • Maintain minimum 1-inch spacing between pieces (cutting tolerance)
   • Position flaws outside pattern pieces (refer to flaw marks from Step 1)
   • For directional prints/plaids: Align pattern pieces to design repeat

5. Document layout:

   • Take photo of final layout before cutting
   • Measure total fabric usage (length x width)
   • Calculate waste percentage: (Total fabric - Used fabric) / Total fabric × 100
   • Upload photo to project folder in Google Drive

Decision Point:

• IF waste percentage >20% → Consult Production Manager for layout approval before cutting
• IF fabric insufficient for pattern → STOP, notify Production Manager and Designer immediately
• IF layout acceptable → Proceed to Step 3

Quality Checkpoint:

• All pattern pieces accounted for
• Grainline requirements identified for each piece
• Layout strategy determined (follow diagram or create custom)
• Fabric yardage sufficient for layout
• Flaws positioned outside pattern pieces
• Layout photo taken and uploaded
• Waste percentage calculated (\<20% or approved if higher)

Estimated Time: 20-40 minutes (depending on complexity)

Responsible Role: Cutter

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Step 3: Pattern Placement & Securing

Objective: Position pattern pieces accurately on fabric with correct grain alignment.

Actions:

1. Prepare fabric for layout:

   • For single-layer cutting: Spread fabric right-side up, smooth out wrinkles
   • For double-layer cutting (most common): Fold fabric lengthwise, right sides together, selvages aligned
   • Pin selvages together at 12-inch intervals to prevent shifting
   • Ensure both layers are smooth with no bubbles or distortion

2. Position first pattern piece (start with largest):

   • Place pattern piece on fabric per layout plan
   • Align grainline arrow with selvage:
     • Measure from arrow tip to selvage
     • Measure from arrow tail to selvage
     • Both measurements must be identical (within 1/8 inch tolerance)
   • Adjust pattern position until grain is perfect

3. Secure pattern piece:

   • Place pattern weights on all four corners
   • Add weights in center of large pieces (every 8-10 inches)
   • For slippery fabrics: Use pins in seam allowances (never in cutting line)

4. Repeat for all pattern pieces:

   • Work systematically from largest to smallest
   • Double-check grain alignment for EACH piece
   • Maintain minimum 1-inch spacing between pieces
   • Position pattern notches away from fabric flaws

5. Final verification walk-around:

   • Walk around cutting table, viewing layout from all angles
   • Verify no pieces overlapping
   • Verify all grainlines parallel to selvage
   • Verify adequate spacing for cutting
   • Verify nap direction consistent (if applicable)

6. Mark cutting lines (if patterns do not include seam allowances):

   • Use tailor's chalk or fabric marking pencil
   • Mark along pattern edge, holding pencil at 90-degree angle
   • Mark all notches with short perpendicular lines
   • Mark darts, pleats, buttonhole placements

Quality Checkpoint:

• Fabric layers aligned and pinned (if double-layer)
• Each pattern piece grain-aligned (measurement verified)
• All pieces weighted or pinned securely
• Minimum 1-inch spacing maintained
• Nap direction consistent (if applicable)
• Final verification walk-around completed
• Cutting lines marked (if needed)

Estimated Time: 30-60 minutes (varies with piece count)

Responsible Role: Cutter

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Step 4: Cutting Execution

Objective: Cut fabric pieces accurately and safely.

Actions:

1. Select appropriate cutting tool:

   • Fabric shears: Straight edges, lightweight fabrics
   • Rotary cutter: Long straight edges, multiple layers, slippery fabrics
   • Serrated shears: Prevent fraying on loosely woven fabrics
   • Electric knife: Heavy fabrics, multiple layers (requires certification)

2. Cutting technique (for fabric shears - most common):

   • Hold shears at 45-degree angle to table
   • Use long, smooth strokes (avoid short choppy cuts = jagged edges)
   • Keep bottom blade flat against table surface
   • NEVER lift fabric while cutting - let fabric remain flat
   • Cut in continuous motion without stopping mid-stroke

3. Cutting sequence:

   • Start with interior pieces (furthest from fabric edge)
   • Work outward toward fabric edges
   • Cut large straight edges first, curves and corners last
   • Cut outside marked line for seam allowances (if marked)

4. Notch marking:

   • Do NOT cut into seam allowance (traditional method - weakens seam)
   • Instead: Make 1/8-inch outward snip beyond seam allowance
   • Or: Mark notch location with tailor's tack or chalk mark

5. Handle specialty cuts:

   • Curves: Use shorter strokes, pivot fabric slightly (not shears)
   • Corners: Cut to corner point, pivot, cut next edge
   • Internal corners (slits): Cut carefully to marked point, no further
   • Bias edges: Handle gently, avoid stretching during cutting

6. Layer control for double-layer cutting:

   • Every 3-4 cuts, verify layers have not shifted
   • If shifting detected: Re-pin, then continue cutting
   • For slippery fabrics: Cut one layer at a time

Quality Checkpoint:

• Appropriate cutting tool selected
• Cutting angle and technique correct
• Long smooth strokes (no jagged edges)
• Fabric remained flat during cutting
• Notches marked correctly (not cut into seam allowance)
• No shifting between layers (if double-layer)
• All pieces cut completely, no partial cuts

Estimated Time: 45-90 minutes (varies with piece count and fabric difficulty)

Responsible Role: Cutter

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Step 5: Post-Cutting Quality Verification

Objective: Verify all pieces cut accurately before releasing to sewing team.

Actions:

1. Separate and organize cut pieces:

   • Lay out all cut pieces on table
   • Group by garment component (bodice pieces together, sleeve pieces together, etc.)
   • Keep pattern pieces with corresponding fabric pieces

2. Count and verify completeness:

   • Count all cut pieces against pattern inventory list
   • IF any pieces missing → Immediately check cutting table for missed pieces
   • IF still missing → Alert Production Manager (may require additional fabric)

3. Inspect each cut piece:

   • Grain accuracy: Verify grainline markings transferred to fabric (chalk or thread trace)
   • Edge quality: Smooth edges, no jagged cuts, no fraying
   • Notch accuracy: All notches marked clearly and correctly
   • Dimensions: Spot-check 3-4 largest pieces against pattern dimensions (±1/8 inch tolerance)
   • Flaws: Verify no fabric flaws within seam allowances

4. Mark pieces for identification:

   • Use tailor's tacks or chalk to mark:
     • Pattern piece name (e.g., "Front Bodice", "Sleeve")
     • Grainline direction (arrow)
     • Right vs. wrong side (small chalk mark on wrong side)
   • CRITICAL for assembly accuracy

5. Bundle and label:

   • Stack matching pieces together (e.g., both sleeve pieces)
   • Pin identification tag to each bundle:
     • Project name
     • Client name
     • Piece names in bundle
     • Quantity
     • Cutter initials
     • Date cut

6. Document completion:

   • Update Notion production tracking: Status = "Cut Complete"
   • Record actual fabric usage (length and width used)
   • Calculate and record waste percentage
   • Note any issues or deviations from standard process
   • Upload photos of bundled pieces to project folder

Quality Checkpoint:

• All pieces counted and verified complete
• Each piece inspected for grain, edges, notches, dimensions
• No fabric flaws within pieces
• All pieces marked for identification
• Pieces bundled and labeled
• Production tracking updated
• Fabric usage and waste documented
• Photos uploaded

Estimated Time: 20-30 minutes

Responsible Role: Cutter

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Step 6: Handoff to Sewing Team

Objective: Transfer cut pieces to sewing team with all necessary information.

Actions:

1. Prepare handoff package:

   • Cut fabric bundles (from Step 5)
   • Pattern pieces (if sewing team needs for reference)
   • Construction notes from Designer (if any)
   • Fabric care instructions (for pressing during construction)

2. Notify Sewing Team Lead:

   • Slack message in #production:

     ✂️ [Project Name] cutting complete. Ready for sewing.
     
     Pieces: [list of bundles]
     Fabric: [fabric description]
     Special notes: [any fabric handling considerations]
     Priority: [Standard / Rush / Hold]
     
     Tagged @[Sewing Team Lead]

3. Physical handoff:

   • Place bundles in designated "Ready for Sewing" bin/shelf
   • OR hand directly to Sewing Team Lead if rush project
   • Ensure handoff package stays together (use project bin or bag)

4. Update production board:

   • Move project card from "Cutting" column to "Ready to Sew" column
   • Update estimated sewing start date

5. Clean up cutting area:

   • Return pattern pieces to pattern library (unless needed by sewing team)
   • Collect fabric scraps:
     • Large scraps (>12 inches) → Save in scrap bin by fabric type
     • Small scraps → Discard per waste disposal guidelines
   • Return unused fabric to storage with updated yardage label
   • Clean cutting table and tools
   • Return all equipment to designated storage

Quality Checkpoint:

• Complete handoff package assembled
• Sewing Team Lead notified via Slack
• Bundles placed in correct location
• Production board updated
• Cutting area cleaned and reset

Estimated Time: 15-20 minutes

Responsible Role: Cutter

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Quality Standards & Checkpoints

Mandatory Quality Gates:

Checkpoint	Criteria	Responsible	Pass/Fail
Fabric Grain Accuracy	All pieces within 1/8 inch of perfect grain alignment	Cutter	FAIL if any piece >1/8 inch off-grain
Edge Quality	Smooth cuts, no jagged edges, no fraying	Cutter	FAIL if edges require re-cutting
Piece Completeness	100% of pattern pieces cut (per inventory list)	Cutter	FAIL if any pieces missing
Waste Percentage	≤20% fabric waste (or pre-approved if higher)	Production Manager	FAIL if >20% without approval
Notch Accuracy	All notches marked clearly, not cut into seam allowance	Cutter	FAIL if notches incorrect or missing

Final Verification Checklist:

• All pieces cut and verified against pattern inventory
• Grain alignment verified on each piece (±1/8 inch tolerance)
• Edge quality acceptable (smooth, clean cuts)
• All notches and markings transferred accurately
• No fabric flaws within cut pieces
• Pieces labeled and bundled correctly
• Fabric usage and waste documented
• Sewing Team notified and handoff completed
• Cutting area cleaned and reset

Exceptions & Edge Cases

Exception 1: Specialty Fabrics (Velvet, Sequins, Lace, Sheer)

When This Occurs: Cutting fabrics requiring special handling techniques.

Modified Procedure:

1. Velvet/Napped Fabrics:

   • ALL pieces must be cut in same nap direction (typically nap running down)
   • Use pattern weights only (NO pins - leave permanent marks)
   • Cut one layer at a time (layers shift easily)
   • Use very sharp shears (dull blades crush pile)

2. Sequined/Beaded Fabrics:

   • Wear protective gloves (sequins can cut skin)
   • Cut from wrong side to protect embellishments
   • Use old shears (sequins dull blades quickly)
   • Cut conservatively (leave extra seam allowance - can trim later)

3. Lace:

   • Consider lace pattern placement for aesthetic effect
   • Avoid cutting through prominent motifs (work around design)
   • Use sharp shears (lace snags easily)
   • Cut one layer at a time for accuracy

4. Sheer Fabrics:

   • Pin frequently (every 4-6 inches) to prevent shifting
   • Use tissue paper under fabric for better cutting control
   • Rotary cutter often works better than shears

Additional Approvals Required: Designer consultation (for aesthetic decisions), Production Manager (for timeline impact)

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Exception 2: Fabric Shortage Discovered During Cutting

When This Occurs: Insufficient fabric discovered after cutting has begun.

Modified Procedure:

1. STOP cutting immediately
2. Document what has been cut vs. what remains to cut
3. Measure remaining fabric accurately
4. Notify Production Manager and Designer within 15 minutes
5. Production Manager evaluates options:
   • Option A: Piecing (seaming together smaller sections) - requires Designer approval
   • Option B: Order additional fabric (same dye lot if possible) - delays timeline
   • Option C: Redesign pattern to use less fabric - requires Designer and client approval
   • Option D: Cancel project - last resort
6. Await decision before proceeding
7. Document decision and rationale in production notes

Additional Approvals Required: Production Manager (immediate), Designer (if design changes), Client (if visible piecing or design changes)

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Exception 3: Fabric Flaw Discovered After Cutting

When This Occurs: Flaw not visible during initial inspection becomes apparent after piece is cut.

Modified Procedure:

1. Assess flaw severity:

   • Minor (small stain, slight weave irregularity): Determine if flaw will be hidden by seam, lining, or construction details
   • Major (hole, large stain, significant structural flaw): Piece cannot be used

2. IF minor flaw and can be hidden:

   • Document flaw location with photo
   • Mark flaw position on pattern piece
   • Continue with piece, noting compensatory construction

3. IF major flaw requiring re-cut:

   • Notify Production Manager immediately
   • Document flaw with photo
   • Set aside flawed piece (do not discard - evidence for fabric supplier claim)
   • Check fabric inventory for replacement yardage
   • Re-cut piece if fabric available
   • IF no fabric available → Follow Exception 2 procedure

4. Document incident:

   • Flaw description and photo
   • Action taken
   • Impact on timeline and budget
   • Fabric supplier information for potential claim

Additional Approvals Required: Production Manager (re-cut decision), Designer (if flaw placement affects design), Finance (if fabric claim pursued)

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Escalation & Problem Resolution

Common Issues:

Problem	Likely Cause	Resolution	Escalate To
Pattern pieces don't fit in fabric yardage	Incorrect yardage calculation, fabric width variance, inefficient layout	Optimize layout, consider piecing, order more fabric	Production Manager (immediate), Designer (if design changes needed)
Grain alignment impossible	Fabric off-grain from manufacturer, pattern piece design issue	Block fabric to straighten grain, consult Pattern Maker on alternative grain placement	Pattern Maker (grain alternatives), Production Manager (if significant delay)
Cutting tools dull or damaged	Equipment wear, improper use, cutting inappropriate materials	Replace blades, sharpen shears, requisition new equipment	Production Manager (equipment requisition)
Fabric shifting during cutting	Slippery fabric, inadequate pinning, rushed technique	Re-pin, cut one layer at a time, use tissue paper under fabric	Senior Cutter (technique guidance)
Unsure of nap direction	Fabric has subtle or irregular nap	Test fabric in different lighting, consult Designer for aesthetic preference	Designer (aesthetic decision), Production Manager (if timeline impact)

Escalation Path:

1. First Level: Production Manager (all cutting decisions, resource issues)
2. Second Level: Designer (design changes, aesthetic decisions)
3. Final Level: COO (timeline impact on client commitments, significant budget variances)

Related Documents

Referenced SOPs:

• SOP-011: Pattern Creation Process
• SOP-021: Sewing Quality Standards
• SOP-023: Quality Inspection Checklist

Templates:

• Cutting Layout Diagram Template
• Fabric Inspection Report
• Cut Piece Identification Tag Template

External Standards:

• ASTM D3990: Standard Terminology of Apparel Stitches and Seams
• ISO 4916: Textiles - Determination of Cut Edge Raveling Characteristics

Knowledge Base:

• [[entity: Production Manager]] - Role definition
• [[process: Order to Delivery]] - Full production workflow

Definitions & Terminology

Term	Definition
Grainline	Direction of lengthwise threads (warp) in woven fabric, running parallel to selvage
Selvage	Tightly woven finished edge of fabric running lengthwise on both sides
Nap	Directional surface texture (pile, sheen, or pattern) requiring all pieces cut in same direction
Bias	45-degree angle to grainline; fabric has maximum stretch on bias
Notch	Marking on pattern and cut fabric to indicate matching points for assembly
Seam Allowance	Fabric margin between cutting line and stitching line
Right Side	Face side of fabric that will be visible in finished garment
Wrong Side	Reverse side of fabric that will be hidden in finished garment
Dye Lot	Batch identifier for fabric; different dye lots may have slight color variations

Metrics & KPIs

Process Performance Indicators:

Metric	Target	Measurement Method	Review Frequency
Cutting Accuracy Rate	≥98% (pieces requiring no re-cutting)	Count re-cuts / total pieces cut	Weekly
Fabric Waste Percentage	≤15% average across all projects	Calculate: (Total fabric - Used fabric) / Total fabric	Monthly
Grain Alignment Accuracy	100% (all pieces within 1/8 inch tolerance)	Spot-check 10% of pieces per project	Per project
Cutting Cycle Time	≤4 hours (from fabric receipt to sewing handoff for standard garment)	Track timestamps in Notion	Weekly
Fabric Flaw Detection Rate	100% (all flaws identified before cutting)	Count post-cut flaw discoveries / total projects	Monthly

Training Requirements

Initial Training:

• 8-hour Fabric Cutting Workshop (grain identification, layout planning, cutting techniques)
• 2-hour Cutting Equipment Safety & Maintenance Course
• 4-hour Specialty Fabrics Handling Course
• 4-hour supervised cutting practice with Senior Cutter review
• Estimated total training time: 18 hours
• Training sign-off: Complete 3 cutting projects independently with ≥98% accuracy, approved by Production Manager

Refresher Training:

• Annual equipment safety recertification (1 hour)
• Quarterly specialty fabric workshops as new materials introduced
• Triggered retraining: If cutting accuracy falls below 95% for two consecutive weeks

Competency Assessment:

• Complete 10 cutting projects with ≥98% accuracy (no re-cuts)
• Demonstrate proficiency with all cutting tools
• Pass written exam on grain identification and fabric characteristics (≥90%)
• Production Manager observation and approval

Revision History

Version	Date	Author Role	Changes	Approved By
1.0	2026-02-02	Production Manager	Initial release	COO

Approval Signatures

Role	Position	Signature	Date
Owner	Production Manager	[Digital signature]	2026-02-02
Accountable	Production Manager	[Digital signature]	2026-02-02
Quality Review	Creative Director	[Digital signature]	2026-02-02

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Next Scheduled Review: 2027-02-02 Document Location: sops/by-department/2000atelier/production/sop-020-cutting-standards.md Master Copy: GitHub repository (source of truth)